A complete guide on the best things to do in Puerto Viejo de Talamanca to help you plan your trip to this laid back Caribbean beach town.
Puerto de Viejo de Talamanca (shortened to Puerto Viejo) is a unique destination on the Caribbean coast of Costa Rica.
Famous for its blend of Afro-Caribbean and Latin American cultures, visitors from all over come for the beautiful beaches, mural-covered buildings, calypso music vibes and tasty coconut-based dishes.
What I love about this town is that there’s something for everyone and in this complete guide, you’ll discover my recommendations for the best things to do in Puerto Viejo. I’ll give you the low down on the area including how to get here and where to stay.
Where is Puerto Viejo de Talamanca?
The town sits at the southern end of Limón Province on the Caribbean coast of Costa Rica. It’s around 220 km, or a 5 h drive from the capital city, San José, and 42 km, or a 1 h drive to the border with Panama. Around 60 km, roughly 1 h 30 min up the coast to the northwest, you have the port city of Limón.
The 6 Best things to do in Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, Costa Rica
The town is laid back with plenty of spots to grab a bite to eat and slurp on a refreshing drink. Along the coastline nearby, there are several great beaches. At night, things come alive as bars and beachfront nightclubs open their doors.
Visit Manzanillo Beach (Manzanillo shipwreck)
Right at the top of my list of the best things to do in Puerto Viejo de Talamanca is to visit Playa Manzanillo (also called Playa Grande). This was my favourite experience.
The beach lies right in front of the town of Manzanillo, 13 km down the coast from Puerto Viejo towards Panama. Its virgin sands are pristine and bend from Punta Manzanillo in the east to Punta Uva in the west.
While the beautiful scenery and warm Caribbean waters are enough to recommend this beach, there’s another reason why I particularly liked it.
Lodged in the sand right at the shoreline is the wreck of a small cargo ship that graffiti artists have turned into a colourful display of creativity.
‘Yicel’ was intentionally run aground by her captain in 2017. That day, the ship’s internal pumps failed and cracks in her hull allowed sea water to flood in. With no way of extracting the water, the captain headed for the shore to avoid sinking.
It’s a good job he did, as the boat was transporting around 1,600 gallons of petrol which would’ve caused an environmental disaster.
Despite the interesting shipwreck and the general beauty of the area, Playa Manzanillo isn’t that popular. This is surprising when you consider that Puerto Viejo is one the most-visited destinations in Costa Rica.
I’ve got a full guide to Playa Manzanillo here to help you plan your visit.
Rent a bike
By far the best and most fun way to explore Puerto Viejo and its nearby beaches is with a bike.
I felt free as a bird riding around the town and along the highway between tall palm trees and the coast. The best thing is that you don’t even need a plan; you could just cruise around enjoying yourself.
I cycled to Playa Manzanillo, which took me around 1 h. On the way back I stopped off at Playa Punta Uva, Playa Chiquita and Playa Cocles. I recommend heading to Manzanillo early so you have time to enjoy these other beaches before the sun goes down.
On the other side of Puerto Viejo, you could also go to Playa Negra – the black sand beach. It should only take you around 10 min from the town centre.
There are a few bike rentals in Puerto Viejo. They all pretty much charge the same rates starting at around $9 US for a day. Among the most reputable rental shops are:
- Puerto Viejo Bike Rentals
- Tuanis Rent a Bike
- Manú Bikes
I didn’t rent from one of the above shops as I found one closer to my accommodation. They charged me around $12 US for 2 days. The bike was a bit old and stiff, but I had no real problems with it or the guys at the shop, so I recommend them.
The shop I rented from doesn’t appear in Google Maps, but I’ve marked it on this next map.
If you find another shop to rent from, look for reviews online beforehand. A few of the bike rentals in Puerto Viejo have bad reputations on Google.
To rent a bike, you’ll need to leave an ID card as a security deposit. If you’ve got a less valuable form of ID than a passport, use that.
Go fishing in the Caribbean Sea
If you like boats and enjoy eating fresh fish, then the best thing to do in Puerto Viejo has to be fishing.
Local fishermen head out every morning for the day’s catch from the small section of beach in front of a shop called Reggaeland. Some of these fishermen offer tourist excursions, each charging their own rate.
To organise a day of fishing, go down to the beach in front of Reggaeland for 6:00 before the fishermen head out or for 15:00 when they return. You might have to wait a bit.
I recommend a captain called ‘Pino’. His real name is Orlando Hansel but everyone calls him by his nickname. He’s a bit of a local celebrity among the fishermen as he’s been in the game a while and has given interviews for several media outlets.
While in Puerto Viejo I was studying a master’s degree in journalism remotely and I interviewed Pino for a course project. He took me out on his boat, the ‘Margarita’, and I made a short documentary video about the local fishermen here.
Pino is a great person and he knows the waters around Puerto Viejo well. If you’re unable to find him or his bright yellow boat, send him a message on: +506 8308 1811. He speaks Spanish and English.
Explore Cahuita National Park
About 30 min up the coast from Puerto Viejo is the small and quiet town of Cahuita. The town itself isn’t much of an attraction, but at its edge lies Cahuita National Park. This is a protected area home to several species of animals.
In Cahuita National Park you can spot monkeys, including cute capuchins and roaring howlers, sloths, agoutis, and, if you’re lucky, snakes such as the venomous yet beautiful yellow eyelash viper. Along with animal spotting you can pay for guided tours to snorkel around the vibrant coral reef and kayak.
The national park is split into 2 sectors, each with an entry point, and these are connected by an 8 km trail. Along the way you can stop off at Cahuita’s great beaches to enjoy a dip in the sea.
Cahuita is a fun day trip from Puerto Viejo and a brilliant wildlife spotting experience. Just watch out for the racoons. These rascals aren’t afraid of humans and will rifle through your bags for food the moment you turn your back.
Here’s my full guide to visiting Cahuita National Park. It includes all the logistical info you need to know along with entry fees and more details about what you can do here.
Chill out in Puerto Viejo town
Puerto Viejo has a great vibe: calypso music fills the air and there are colourful murals on almost every wall. It’s fun to spend a day walking around the town, chilling out at the beach front and eating good food.
I liked Chino Beach, which is right at the front of town just down from the main bus stop. The water is stunning and you can see all the way to Cahuita National Park. At the shore there are bars and restaurants too.
Eat rice and beans
You have to try the local favourite dish, rice and beans. It’s a simple, healthy and delicious meal.
The rice and beans (gallo pinto in Spanish) is cooked in coconut and served with salad, patacones (fried, crispy plantain) and a portion of meat. Although you can always ask for it to be vegetarian. This was by far my favourite dish in all of Costa Rica.
I can recommend 2 great places for rice and beans. The first is Café Gustitos on the main road. This is a budget friendly soda (small, family run restaurants with set lunches) offering homemade tasty meals. Expect to pay around $8 US and arrive no later than 13:30 because they sell out fast.
The other restaurant is La Barra del Ceviche, also on the main road. The rice and beans here was better than Café Gustito’s, but almost twice the price, however well worth it.
While rice and beans is the must-try, there is plenty to eat in Puerto Viejo. All along the main road (Ruta Nacional Secundaria 256) that goes through the middle of town you’ll find plenty of restaurants serving everything from burgers to ceviche.
On the corner of Calle 213 and Avenida 69, a friendly Italian guy runs a great pizzeria called Comida Caribeña Y Italiana. It’s a hole in the wall of the MegaSuper market. Prices start at around $7 US and the pizzas are big.
Other things to do in Puerto Viejo
These next activities didn’t quite make my list of the best things to do in Puerto Viejo. However, they’re popular with tourists and worth considering if you’re spending at least a few days in the area.
Bribri Waterfalls
If you fancy some freshwater fun, then 13 km from Puerto Viejo is a group of cascades called Bribri Falls. These are named after the indigenous Bribri people native to this part of Costa Rica. There are 3 waterfalls in total: Ma-cu Waterfall (also called Bribri Sparkling Waterfall), Two Waters Waterfall and Volio Waterfall.
The Ma-cu Waterfall is the easiest to get to and here you can jump from rocks into a pool below. To get to the waterfall, take the Ruta Nacional Secundaria 256 from Puerto Viejo to Hone Creek. Here join the Ruta Primaria Nacional 36 towards the town of Bribri. The waterfall sits just off Ruta 36 about halfway between Hone Creek and Bribri.
Getting to The Ma-cu waterfall by car takes around 25 min while on foot it’s around 2 h. The other 2 waterfalls are deeper in the jungle and you’ll need to do some trekking to reach them. I’ve read reports of thieves at the Volio Waterfall, so consider a guided tour to this one.
Jaguar Rescue Centre
This is a wildlife rehabilitation centre that treats vulnerable animals with the aim of releasing them back into the wild. Since opening its doors in 2008, the Jaguar Rescue Centre has saved thousands of creatures including sloths, monkeys, birds and wild cats.
You can join a tour to see the animals and learn about Costa Rica’s wildlife. Public tours cost $28 US per person, last 1 h 30 min, and start at 9:30 and 11:30. There’s no need to book in advance, just show up 15 min before the start time.
A word of warning: the centre’s name is a little misleading as there aren’t often jaguars here. It all depends on whether a jaguar at risk has been brought in for help. So, if you specifically want to see a jaguar, you might be disappointed. You can always contact the rescue centre beforehand to find out.
The Jaguar Rescue Centre is located 5 km from Puerto Viejo just before Punta Cocles. You can get here easily by walking, cycling or taxi.
How to get to Puerto Viejo de Talamanca
Puerto Viejo is well connected and arriving from San José or the border town of sixaola with a car or public transport is straightforward.
Driving
From San José you’ll take the Ruta Nacional Primaria 32 across the country all the way to the port city of Limón. From here you’ll head south down the coast on Ruta Nacional Primaria 32 and later on Ruta Nacional Secundaria 256. If driving from Sixaola, the town bordering Panama, you just need to take Ruta Nacional Primaria 36.
Bus
MEPE is the main bus operator for the Caribbean coast in Costa Rica. It runs a direct service between San José and Puerto Viejo de Talamanca stopping in Limón along the way.
The bus leaves every 2 h from the MEPE terminal on Avenida 9 Calle 12 in San José and drops you at the main bus station in Puerto Viejo just off the beachfront. Tickets cost 6,760 CRC ($14 US) and you’ll find the bus schedule here.
Getting to Puerto Viejo from Sixaola by bus is just as easy. The service is direct and also run by MEPE. The journey takes around 1 h 30 min and costs 2,500 CRC ($5 US).
Shuttle transfer
A shuttle bus will get you to Puerto Viejo much faster than a public bus but at a much higher price. From San José rates start at around $60 US per person for a seat in a shared shuttle. There are a few shuttle bus operators serving Puerto Viejo de Talamanca but the most reputable are:
If you’re a larger group then it might work out both cost- and time-wise to book a private transfer through one of the companies above. Private transfers from San José to Puerto Viejo start at around $320 US and can usually take up to 10 people.
Shuttle operators charge around $15 US for extra suitcases or oversized luggage such as surfboards.
There aren’t normally shuttles from Sixaola to Puerto Viejo. While you’re in Sixaola you might find one that’s come from Bocas del Toro in Panama and is headed to Puerto Viejo, but your best bet is to get a taxi. This should cost around $50 US and take 1 h.
Where to stay in Puerto Viejo
Puerto Viejo attracts all kinds of tourism from budget backpacking to high-end stays and there is accommodation for all. You’ll find plenty of hostels dotted around the town along with many hotels.
The accommodations I recommend below and based on either my personal experience or a combination of consistently high ratings across major booking platforms, price and location.
Budget accommodation
Pagalú Hostel – from $16 US/night
This is where I stayed and I recommend it. The hostel is modern, spacious and very clean. The facilities and location are great too. There’s an open-plan kitchen, a garden area and a supermarket on the corner of the block. Shared dorms start at $16 US a night and privates start at $40 US.
My only gripe is that there are many strict rules and signs up everywhere enforcing them. But aside from this, the hostel was great.
Roots Family Hostel – from $20 US/night
Roots is just 2 blocks back from the beach and 1 block from the main street. The hostel has an aesthetic, natural look as everything is made of wood. Guests have access to free WIFI and a kitchen. Shared dorms start at $20 US a night and privates start at $40 US.
Book Roots Family Hostel here.
La Casa de Rolando – from $30 US/night
This budget, family-run hotel is great if you’re looking for a cheap but comfortable private room with kitchen access. It’s located 2 blocks away from the main street and there are several reviews about how nice the family running the place are.
Higher-end accommodation
Hotel Sunshine Caribe – from $75 US/night
From Hotel Sunshine Caribe it’s just a 5 min walk to Playa Negra and Playa Chino. Rooms look very comfortable and are equipped with a TV and kitchenette. Some rooms have a balcony and others mountain views. Rates start at $75 US a night.
Book Hotel Sunshine Caribe here.
Villa Advi – from $90 US/night
Villa Advi is a 2-bedroom rental apartment that’s just a 10-min walk outside of Puerto Viejo and a stone’s throw from Playa Negra. According to reviews, you can hear the waves from the apartment. The accommodation is equipped with a kitchen and WIFI and guests have access to a terrace, and private parking. Prices at Villa Advi start at $90 US a night.
Staying in Cahuita
If you want to spend time at Limón’s amazing beaches, but seek a quieter atmosphere than that of Puerto Viejo’s, then you should consider staying in Cahuita. This will also make visiting Cahuita National Park a lot easier.
In fact, I met a few people who were splitting their stay between Cahuita and Puerto Viejo, which gives you the best of both.
Like Puerto Viejo, Cahuita has accommodation options for all budgets and plenty of places along the main road for food and drinks.
You can easily get between Cahuita and Puerto Viejo with the MEPE bus for 1,000 CRC ($2 US).
Getting around Puerto Viejo
Puerto Viejo is so small you can walk from one side to the other in just 15 min. If heading further afield, to one of the nearby beaches for example, then you could rent a bike (as I previously mentioned) or take a tuk-tuk. A 10-min tuk-tuk ride should cost $4-$6 US.
Scooter or motorbike rentals are another option and will allow you to visit several places in the same day. Prices start at around $30 US per day and there are a few places to rent from in town.
Among the most reputable rentals are Mystery Jungle and EVolVE Electric Vehicles. You’ll need the correct license and to pay a security deposit to rent a scooter or motorbike.
Is Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica safe?
Other places along the Caribbean coast, especially the port city of Limón, have a dangerous reputation, which can influence perceptions of Puerto Viejo. However, most of the crime here is petty , such as theft. You can avoid problems by always keeping your valuables close and out of sight.
At night drug dealers operate in plain sight in the town centre and near the beachfront clubs. They’ll often try to sell to you, but you can just ignore them. It’s in the dealers’ interests not to cause tourists any trouble.
Based on my personal experience, Puerto Viejo is very safe and as long as you’re respectful and don’t flash your valuables, you shouldn’t have any problems here.
How long should you spend in Puerto Viejo?
Consider spending at least 3 days in Puerto Viejo. This will give you a chance to enjoy nearby beaches such as Manzanillo, to explore Cahuita National Park and a day to just chill out or cruise around on a bike. If you want to fit in more activities, like swimming at Bribri Falls, then consider staying at least 5 days.
Puerto Viejo de Talamanca: a Caribbean dream
Now you know what the best things to do in Puerto Viejo de Talamanca are, you can go ahead and plan your stay. I had a great time in this Caribbean coastal gem and extended my time here to 2 weeks.
My final tips are to stock up on sunscreen, bring your shades and to eat as much rice and beans as you can stomach. That stuff is delicious!
I have more Costa Rica adventure travel guides on A World Over packed with personal insights and tips to make your travel planning easier.
- Getting from Puerto Viejo (Costa Rica) to Bocas del Toro (Panama): Your Travel Options
- Cerro Chirripó Costa Rica Hike: Complete Guide
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- Ultimate 7-day Costa Rica Itinerary for Adventure Travelers
- Things to do in Orosi Valley Costa Rica: Complete Guide
- What to do in Sámara, Costa Rica: Complete Travel Guide
- Manzanillo Beach near Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica (Manzanillo Shipwreck Beach) Guide